Brooke Martin
Coloring your own candles is a fun and creative project, but it can be tricky to get right. The type of dye you choose is important as it can affect the burn of the candle—some dyes can clog the wick or cause the candle to self-extinguish. Food coloring, for example, is not recommended as it will not blend with the wax. Instead, opt for a candle dye chip or liquid candle dye, which is designed to be used with candle wax. You can also use powdered dyes, such as Rit Dye, but avoid ordinary liquid dyes like food coloring. The amount of dye you use will depend on the desired color and the weight of the wax. Always test the color before adding any fragrance, and remember to stir constantly while pouring in the pigment.
Characteristics and Values of Candle Colouring
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Paraffin wax, old candle, powdered dye, candle mold, wick, double boiler, bowl, pan, kitchen thermometer, scissors |
| Candle Dye Types | Powdered, liquid, solid (chips), crayons, food colouring, oil-based food colouring, natural mica |
| Process | Melt wax, add dye, stir, test colour, adjust, pour into mould, allow to set, trim wick |
| Tips | Avoid food colouring, use dyes formulated for candles, test colour before adding fragrance, store liquid dyes away from sunlight, use UV inhibitor to prevent fading, use marble effect for aesthetics, use soy wax for crisp colours |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right wax
Soy Wax
Soy wax is a popular choice for homemade candles as it is white, allowing colours to appear crisp and clean without unexpected yellowing. It is also inexpensive and burns cleanly. Soy wax is ideal for creating pastel shades and bright colours. Additionally, soy wax flakes can be used to achieve medium to deep shades. It is important to note that soy wax has a lower melting point, so when adding dye, ensure the wax is at its hottest (around 185° F) to ensure the dye fully melts and blends.
Beeswax
Beeswax naturally has a yellow hue, which will give your colours a warm, aged tint. If you prefer a less tinted colour, you can opt for white beeswax. Beeswax holds colour well and melts slowly, resulting in longer-lasting candles. Beeswax is suitable for achieving deeper shades and can be used with powder dyes such as Rit Dye.
Coconut Wax
Similar to soy wax, coconut wax is solid white, making it suitable for achieving true colours. However, coconut wax is considered a soft wax, so it may not be ideal for pillar candles but works well for container candles or wax blends.
Paraffin Wax
Paraffin wax is commonly used for candle-making and can be coloured with powdered dyes, crayons, or liquid dyes. However, avoid using ordinary liquid food colouring as it may not blend well with the wax, resulting in an unsightly splotchy effect.
Wax Type and Dye Compatibility
When choosing a wax, consider the type of dye you want to use. Liquid dyes are easy to use and can create bright, bold colours. They are specifically designed for candles, reducing the risk of clogging the wick. Solid candle dyes, or dye chips, are also a good option as they mix smoothly into melted wax and are mess-free. If you plan to use mica, a mineral-based dye, be aware that it may not fully incorporate into the wax and could sink to the bottom or produce uneven colour. Mica is more suitable for projects without a wick, such as wax melts.
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Selecting the right dye
Type of Dye
The most common types of candle dyes are liquid dye, solid dye, and powdered dye.
- Liquid dye is practical and intensifies the colour of your candle. It is easy to use and allows you to create custom colours. It is also suitable for achieving bright, bold colours. However, it may not be the best option if you plan to store the dye for a long time, as it can be more difficult to store than solid dye.
- Solid candle dye, also known as dye chips, are coloured chips that smoothly mix into candle wax during melting. They are easy to store and mess-free, but they may be more challenging to measure accurately compared to liquid dye.
- Powdered dyes, such as Rit Dye, are suitable for candle-making. They can help you achieve both pastel and bright colours. However, it is important to note that not all powdered dyes are suitable for candles, as some may not dissolve completely in the wax.
Compatibility with Wax
Different dyes work better with specific types of wax. Soy wax, for example, is a preferred choice for many candle makers as it is white, allowing colours to appear crisp and clean. Beeswax, on the other hand, often has a yellow hue, giving colours a warm, aged tint. If you want to avoid this tint, you can opt for white beeswax. Coconut wax is also white and suitable for container candles or wax blends.
Colour Intensity
The amount of dye you use will determine the intensity of the colour. Generally, the more dye you add, the bolder and more vibrant the candle will be. Darker shades like hunter green or navy blue may require double or triple the amount of dye. It is important to constantly stir while adding the pigment to ensure even distribution.
Safety
Some dyes may interfere with the burning of the candle. For example, mica, a natural dye, can clog the wick when burning, causing the candle to struggle to maintain a healthy flame or even self-extinguish. Similarly, crayons, food colouring, and powders are not recommended as they can cause issues with the burning process or fail to blend properly with the wax. Always opt for dyes specifically formulated for candle making to ensure safety and functionality.
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Adding dye to wax
Types of Dye
Candle dye comes in three main types: water-soluble candle dye, crayons, and natural mica. Candle dye is formulated specifically to colour candle wax and is the only option recommended by some sources. Water-soluble dye is easy to use and compatible with all types of wax. Crayons are made of wax and will blend well, but they also contain insoluble pigments that may cause issues. Natural mica produces a glittery effect, but it does not mix well with wax and will clog the wick.
How to Add Dye to Wax
First, melt your wax. Avoid applying heat directly to the wax, as this may alter its consistency. Instead, use a double boiler or place a glass mixing bowl inside a pan of hot water. Gradually raise the temperature to 180°F (82°C) and stir constantly until all the wax is molten.
Next, add the dye. For candle dye powder, use 10g of dye per 500g of wax, adding a little at a time and stirring well. If using liquid dye, the ratio is 15ml of dye per 1kg of wax. If using crayons, add a few shavings and stir until blended.
Test the colour by applying a small amount of wax to a piece of paper. The colour of molten wax can vary dramatically as it cools, so this is a simple way to see what your finished candle will look like. If you need to adjust the colour, add more dye for deeper shades or add white wax to lighten it.
Finally, pour the wax into your candle mould and let it cool for an hour. Once the wax has set, trim the wick, leaving about 0.64cm (1/4 inch) exposed. Your coloured candle is now ready to light!
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Stirring and pouring
When stirring, it is essential to maintain the wax's temperature within a specific range, typically between 135°F and 140°F (57°C to 60°C). This temperature range ensures that the wax is in a suitable state for pouring. If the wax is too hot, it may not hold its shape when poured, and if it is too cold, it may solidify before pouring or create an uneven surface.
The pouring process involves transferring the coloured wax from the melting container into a mould. It is important to pour the wax slowly and carefully to avoid spills and unevenness in the final candle. One should also be mindful of the fill level, leaving about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) of space at the top of the mould to allow for the wax's contraction during cooling and to accommodate the melted wax as the candle burns.
Before pouring, it is recommended to test the colour by dripping a small amount of wax onto a paper plate or paper towel. This allows for any necessary adjustments to be made. Additionally, the wax's temperature should be checked to ensure it is within the ideal range for pouring. If the wax is too hot, it can be allowed to cool slightly, and if it is too cold, it can be briefly returned to the heat source to warm up.
The pouring process may vary depending on the type of candle being made. For example, layered candles require each layer to cool completely before the next layer is poured, and it is recommended to pour at a cooler temperature, no higher than 140°F, to prevent colour bleeding. For tilted candles, the container is placed on a stable surface, and the wax is carefully poured into it, creating a unique angled effect.
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Setting and finishing
Allow the wax to set up. It may take up to an hour for the wax to solidify completely. As it does, it will assume the shape of the surrounding container, and you will have a brand new homemade candle in your chosen colour. In the meantime, avoid touching the wax. Doing so could leave behind depressions, smudges, or other imperfections. Be careful not to disturb the wick while the wax is setting up. Placing the freshly-poured candle in the refrigerator or leaving it in another cool area may help speed up the hardening process.
Once the wax has set, trim the wick. Untie or cut the wick from the dowel. Take a pair of scissors and snip the wick about ¼ inch (0.64 cm) from the surface of the wax. Your new candle will then be ready to light and add a warm glow to any room! Clipping the wick too short may make the candle difficult to light, while leaving it too long will cause it to burn inefficiently.
If you are making coloured candles to sell, gift, or match your decor, it is recommended to do a candle colour test. Cut long, slim strips of white paper and dip them into the coloured wax. Watch the wax cool—this will be the colour of your candle once cured. If you need to adjust the colour, add more dye for deeper shades or add white for pastel shades. Then stir until blended and re-test.
Finally, remember that dyes are UV light-sensitive. When working with dyes, do not cure them in front of a bright window and keep them stored in a shaded area, not in direct sunlight. Using a UV inhibitor should help your colours stay vivid over time and reduce the likelihood of fading or discolouration.
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