
Candling is a process used to observe the development of an embryo in an egg. It involves using a high-powered light source to see the growing embryo. When candling a guinea egg, it is recommended to wait until day 16 as they are harder to candle than chicken eggs. On day 7, the embryo will resemble a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it, and by day 14, it should be much larger and difficult to see through the egg. During the first 25 days, it is important to turn the eggs by hand at least every 8 hours to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. The ideal temperature for incubating guinea eggs is 99-99.5°F for forced air and 101-102°F for still air.
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What You'll Learn

Choosing the right eggs
It is important to choose clean, fertilized eggs that are less than 10 days old. Do not wash the eggs, as this will remove the protective coating. Avoid incubating cracked, damaged, or misshapen eggs. If the eggs are particularly dirty, you can lightly buff them with a dry cloth.
The ideal incubator settings for the first 25 days are a temperature of 99-99.5°F for forced air and 101-102°F for still air, and humidity between 45-55%. During the final three days, referred to as "lockdown", stop turning the eggs, increase the humidity to around 65-70%, and let the keets prepare for hatching.
It is recommended to set up and run the incubator for at least 24 hours before placing the eggs inside. This allows the environment to stabilize and gives you time to make any necessary adjustments. It is also important to monitor the temperature and humidity levels regularly and make adjustments as needed, especially during different seasons.
With the right tools, knowledge, and care, you can successfully hatch healthy guinea fowl chicks and enhance your hatching experience.
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Incubator setup
To set up your incubator, you should first locate it in a room that maintains a constant temperature, is free from drafts, and is away from windows and direct sunlight. Ensure that your incubator is located where children and pets will not disturb it during the 28-day incubation period.
Next, you'll want to calibrate your incubator. If it is a forced air incubator, set the temperature at 99.5°F to 100.5°F. If it is a still air incubator, set the temperature at 100.5°F to 101.5°F, measured at the top of the eggs. You need a calibrated thermometer and a salt-tested hygrometer because you can't trust the readings from the incubator. The humidity in the incubator should be kept between 30% and 55% for the first 25 days.
Before placing the eggs in the incubator, you should set it up and running at least 24 hours beforehand. This will allow the environment inside the incubator to stabilize, and give you time to make any necessary adjustments.
Once you have calibrated the incubator and left it running for 24 hours, you can place the eggs inside. It is good practice to “candle” the eggs (using a high-powered light source to view the growing embryo). Day 7 and Day 14 are the best days to observe changes in the embryo. On Day 7, you should see a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it, resembling a spider on the yolk. By Day 14, the embryo is much larger, and it should be difficult to see through the egg when candling.
During the first 25 days, you will also need to turn the eggs by hand a minimum of every 8 hours if you do not have an automatic turner. Better hatch rates are usually the result of more frequent turning, but the trade-off is that every time you open the incubator, it loses heat and humidity. Many people find that hand-turning every 6 to 8 hours is best.
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Adjusting the temperature
When using an incubator, it is essential to set it up and run it for at least 24 hours before placing the eggs inside. This allows the environment to stabilize, and you can make any necessary adjustments. The incubator should be placed in a room that maintains a constant temperature, away from drafts and direct sunlight.
During the first 25 days of incubation, it is important to monitor the temperature and humidity levels. The temperature may drop when you first put the eggs in the incubator, but it will return to the correct level once the eggs warm up. It is normal for the temperature to fluctuate by a few degrees, but if it gets too hot, you can slightly open the lid, and if it gets too cold, you can cover the lid with a blanket.
Additionally, if you are using an egg turner, you should remove it on day 25, as some incubators have motors that contribute to the overall temperature. Make sure to adjust the incubator's temperature if it gets too low after removing the turner.
Candling the eggs, which involves using a high-powered light source to view the embryo, is an important technique to monitor the development of the eggs and adjust the temperature accordingly. It is recommended to candle the eggs after 5 to 10 days of incubation and every few days thereafter. By consulting a guinea fowl egg candling chart, you can identify growth milestones and ensure the optimal temperature for each stage of development.
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Candling the eggs
Candling is a process that involves using a high-powered light source to observe the embryo inside a growing egg. It is an important step in ensuring the health of the embryo and can help identify eggs that are no longer viable.
To candle guinea eggs, you will need a strong light source, such as a high-powered torch or a specialised candling device. It is recommended to candle the eggs in a dark room to get a better view of the embryo. Start by shining the light source directly onto the egg, holding it as close to the eggshell as possible without touching it. You should begin to see the outline of the embryo inside.
During the first 25 days of incubation, you should candle the eggs regularly to monitor the development of the embryo. Day 7 and Day 14 are the best days to observe changes in the embryo. On Day 7, you should see a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it, resembling a spider on the yolk. By Day 14, the embryo will be much larger, and it will be difficult to see through the egg when candling. However, you should still be able to see through the air sac at the large end of the egg. If any embryos appear to not be developing by Day 14, it is important to remove and discard these eggs to avoid any issues during hatching.
On Day 25, you will candle the eggs one last time to check for any eggs that have stopped developing. During the final stages of incubation, it is crucial to remove any non-viable eggs as the keets will soon be hatching and moving around inside the incubator. After Day 25, you will stop candling the eggs and increase the humidity to prepare for the hatching process.
It is important to note that candling requires practice and patience. Guinea eggs can be challenging to candle, and it may take some time to get a clear view of the embryo. Additionally, remember to handle the eggs with care and avoid washing them, as this can remove the protective "bloom" coating.
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Lockdown and hatching
The final three days of the incubation period are known as "lockdown". During this time, you must not open the incubator until after all the chicks have hatched and dried off. On day 25, you should stop turning the eggs by hand or using an automatic turner. The embryos are nearly fully developed and will position themselves inside the egg in preparation for hatching.
It is crucial to increase the humidity to around 65-70% during the lockdown period. You should also candle the eggs one last time and remove any that have stopped developing. Guinea eggs usually take 28 days to hatch, so days 25-28 are the home stretch.
During the lockdown, you will likely hear peeping from the keets, indicating they are about to hatch. Allow a full 24 hours for all the keets to hatch, and resist the urge to assist any struggling ones. Patience is key.
Candling is a process where you use a high-powered light source to view the growing embryo inside the egg. It is recommended to candle guinea eggs on days 7 and 14 of the incubation period, as these are the best days to observe changes in the embryo. On day 7, you should see a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it. By day 14, the embryo is much larger, and it should be difficult to see through the egg when candling.
Overall, the lockdown and hatching process is a critical and exciting phase in the incubation journey, requiring patience and careful monitoring to ensure the successful hatching of healthy keets.
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Frequently asked questions
Candling is a process where a high-powered light source is used to view the growing embryo inside an egg.
To candle a guinea egg, you need a high-powered light source. On Day 7, you should see a small dark spot with a few blood vessels radiating from it. By Day 14, the embryo is much larger and it should be difficult to see through the egg when candling, but you should be able to see through the air sac at the large end.
Day 7 and Day 14 are the best days to observe changes in the embryo. However, some sources suggest waiting until Day 16 to candle guinea eggs as they are hard to candle.











































