Jessie Taylor
Pillar candles are a popular choice for decorating homes and events. They are freestanding candles that come in various shapes, sizes, and heights and are often made from denser wax. They are commonly used for decorative purposes, home ambiance, or religious ceremonies. When making pillar candles, it is important to consider the type of wax, fragrance oil, colour dye, and wick size. When burning a pillar candle, it is important to trim the wick to ensure an even burn and prevent tunneling or uneven wax melting. This article will provide an introduction to pillar candles, including how to make and burn them correctly.
How to Correctly Make a Pillared Candle
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Wax type | Soy pillar blends, paraffin, beeswax, palm wax |
| Candle mould | Pillar-shaped, in the desired size and design |
| Double boiler | For melting the wax |
| Thermometer | To monitor the wax temperature |
| Fragrance oils | For scent |
| Colour dyes | For personalisation |
| Wick type | Cotton, paper, zinc, or wood |
| Wick size | Dependent on the diameter of the candle, type of wax, and desired burn characteristics |
| Pouring temperature | Higher temperatures prevent jump lines |
| Mould temperature | Heat the mould with a heat gun to prevent jump lines |
| First pour | Put the sealed mould in a pan |
| Final product | Trim the wick to 1/4 inch |
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What You'll Learn
Choose the right wick size for your candle type
Choosing the right wick size for your candle is crucial to avoid problems and create high-quality candles. The type of candle wicks used can determine whether your beautifully crafted candle burns too fast, funnels, or fails to stay lit.
The first step to choosing the right wick size is to measure the diameter of the candle. The second step is to consider the amount of fragrance or colour you plan to add to the candle. The more colour or fragrance, the thicker the wick should be. Other factors that influence the appropriate wick size include the type of wax, the type and amount of fragrance oil, the amount of dye used, the container size and shape, and any additional additives used. For example, soy wax has a longer, slower burn time than paraffin wax, so a thinner wick may be best. Conversely, if you intend to burn the candle in short intervals, a thicker wick would be advisable to form a melt pool quickly across the candle to avoid funneling.
You can use a wick guide tool to find a wick recommendation for your candles. It is also important to periodically test your candles to ensure that occasional variances in your wax or fragrances still work well with your chosen wick size. Testing is the only way to determine the best wick to use for each candle project.
A candle with the proper wick size will have a flame that is appropriately sized and does not flicker. The melt pool will extend to the edge of the container and will be about half an inch deep. The wick will burn cleanly with minimal to no carbon build-up. Conversely, if a candle is under-wicked, the wick size is too small, and the candle will burn down the middle or 'tunnel'. An over-wicked candle has a wick that is too large, causing the flame to flicker continuously, and the melt pool to be deeper than half an inch.
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Avoid jump lines by controlling the mould and wax temperature
Jump lines are caused by pouring wax at too low a temperature and/or when the mould is too cold. This happens because the wax starts to congeal immediately and sets as more wax is poured on top of it, forming horizontal lines or rings. To prevent this issue, you must control the mould and wax temperature.
Firstly, heat your mould with a heat gun before pouring in the wax. Increasing the pouring temperature will also help. You can use a double boiler to melt the wax just right—boil a pot of water and place the pouring pot (containing the wax) within this boiling water. This setup ensures the pouring pot is never in direct contact with the heat source, evenly distributing heat without scorching the wax or causing a fire. Even with a double boiler, never leave the wax unattended, as it can quickly reach dangerous temperatures.
Always use a thermometer to monitor the wax temperature. The ideal pouring temperature is 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit above the wax's melting point. For example, if the wax's melting point is 130 degrees Fahrenheit, you should aim for a pouring temperature between 145 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
Additionally, ensure that you are using the right type of wax for your mould. Soft waxes, such as IGI-4627, IGI-4630, or IGI-6006, are poor choices for pillar candles as they will adhere to the mould and be challenging to remove. Harder waxes, like IGI-4625, are more suitable for moulded candles.
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Prevent wax from sticking to the mould
To prevent wax from sticking to the mould, there are several methods you can try. Firstly, the type of wax you use is important. For example, if you're using a latex rubber mould, a mixture of 0.5-1% vybar and paraffin wax is recommended. You should avoid stearin as it can rot these moulds. If you're using a silicone mould, soy wax may be too soft and sticky, so consider blending it with beeswax, which has a higher melting point. You can start with a 50/50 blend and adjust as needed.
Another factor to consider is the temperature of the mould and wax. Placing your mould in the refrigerator for a few minutes can make it easier to remove the candle, as wax shrinks as it cools. However, avoid leaving the mould in the refrigerator for more than 10 minutes, as extended exposure to cold air can cause the wax to crack. If you're in a hurry, you can cool the mould in the fridge for an hour or run it under cold water to speed up the cooling process.
Additionally, you can use release agents or lubricants to prevent sticking. For metal moulds, use a candle release spray or lotion, with or without silicone. For plastic and acrylic moulds, avoid silicone sprays as they can erode the mould. Instead, use vegetable cooking oils or wax release alternatives specifically made for plastic moulds. You can also try dishwashing liquid for latex rubber moulds.
Finally, the cooling process and demoulding technique are crucial. Leave the candle in the mould overnight if possible. When removing the candle, slowly loosen the mould from the wax before attempting to remove it completely. Gently pull the mould apart just enough to break contact with the wax, then start peeling the mould away, taking extra time with any resistant areas.
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Release a stuck candle from its mould
To release a stuck candle from its mould, you must first let the mould cool down completely. If you try to remove the candle before the wax has set, the surface of the candle may tear and crumble. Once the mould is cool, flip it upside down and lightly tap on the bottom to shake the candle loose. If the candle doesn't come out, try gently tugging on the wick.
If the candle is still stuck, you can try a few other methods. One option is to put the mould in the freezer for at least half an hour, as the cold will cause the wax to contract, making it easier to remove. Another method is to heat the outside of the mould with a heat gun or blow dryer on the lowest setting. This will soften the wax and allow the candle to be removed without melting it.
Additionally, you can try using a release agent to lubricate the inside of the mould. This can be done with mould release spray, vegetable oil spray, or vegetable cooking oil applied with a soft, lint-free cloth. If you're using a metal mould, you can run boiling water over the outside for a few seconds and then pull hard on the wick to remove the candle.
For plastic and acrylic moulds, use hot water instead of boiling water, as boiling water can warp the mould. Always consult the instructions that came with your mould to check the correct temperatures.
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Burn your candle evenly
Burning a candle evenly is important to ensure that you get the most out of your candle and to prevent "tunneling". Candle tunneling occurs when only a small circle of wax melts around the wick, instead of the wax across the entire surface of the candle melting. This can cause some wax to be wasted and can also make it difficult to light the wick as the tunnel deepens. Tunneling is often caused by a wick that is too small or by a first lighting that is too brief, preventing the wax from melting to the edge.
To burn your candle evenly, it is recommended that you let the wax melt to the edge of the container each time you light it. This is especially important the first time you light a new candle and usually takes 1-2 hours, depending on the candle's size. You can aid this process by trimming the candle wick to 1/4 inch before lighting, as this enables a cleaner, more consistent burn.
If your candle is already tunneling, there are several ways to fix this. One method is to use tin foil or aluminium foil to reflect heat back down to the candle's edge, helping to melt the wax. You can do this by wrapping the foil around the outside of the candle, leaving the center open for the flame. After 1-2 hours of burning, the surface of the candle should even out. Alternatively, you can melt the entire candle surface with a hairdryer or scoop out the unmelted wax with a spoon until it is the same height or lower than the middle part that melts.
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Frequently asked questions
Try not to hit the side of the mould with wax while pouring. If your candle gets stuck, gently squeeze the sides of the mould or roll it on a flat surface using gentle pressure to help it release. You can also put the mould in the fridge (not the freezer) for about 5 minutes and try again.
Before lighting the candle, trim the wick to 1/4 inch. Keep the candle away from drafts and ensure it is on a stable surface. You can also try scooping out some of the melted wax from the centre of the candle, allowing the wick to draw in more wax.
Jump lines are caused by pouring wax at too low a temperature and/or when the mould is too cold. Heat your mould with a heat gun before pouring in wax. Increasing the pouring temperature will also help.
