
Candles are a great way to add a personalised touch to your home decor. However, they can be tricky to get just right. One of the most common issues with candles is ''tunneling', where the wax remains around the edges while the candle burns down the middle. This can be avoided by lighting your candle for a long period on its first burn, allowing the total area of the candle to melt. Another issue is 'sinkholes', which are hidden cavities within the candle, often next to the wick, that can cause air pockets to form. To avoid this, you can heat the glass before pouring the wax, slowing the cooling process and preventing the wax from clinging to the side. Additionally, poking relief holes as the candle cools can help to prevent air pockets from forming. Now, let's talk about how to pierce a candle.
Characteristics and Values of Candle Piercing/ Candle-Making
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Candle Mould Material | PVC, Silicone |
| Wick Material | Cotton |
| Wax Type | 100% Soy, Coconut Wax Blend |
| Wick Placement Technique | Wick Holder, Wicking Needle |
| Candle Care | Avoid Water, Trim Wick to 1/4" Before Burning, Avoid Tunneling by Burning for 2-4 Hours Initially |
| Candle Appearance | Smooth Surface, No Holes or Bubbles |
| Candle Scent | Smoke, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vetiver, Heliotrope, Siberian Iris |
| Burn Time | 40 Hours |
| Weight | 8 oz |
| Candle Container | Reusable Amber Glass Vessel |
| Packaging | Signature Store Green Box, Custom Marbled Tissue Paper |
| Ingredients | Free of Parabens, Phthalates, Formaldehyde |
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What You'll Learn

How to pierce a candle in a PVC mould
To pierce a candle in a PVC mould, you'll need to follow a few important steps to ensure your candle burns evenly and effectively. Firstly, cut the PVC to the desired size of your candle, and use sandpaper or acetone to remove any printing on the PVC pipe. If you wish to add an aesthetic effect, you can cut one end of the PVC at an angle.
Next, you'll need to prepare the mould by lubricating it with a thin layer of oil, ensuring every part of the interior surface is coated. This step is crucial as it will enable you to remove your finished candle without causing any damage.
Now, it's time to insert the wick. Cut the end of the wick at an angle to facilitate easier insertion. Slide the wick through the pre-drilled hole in the mould, leaving about a 2.5 cm or 1-inch overhang at both ends. Secure the wick tightly and in the centre using a wick holder. You can use Blu-tack to cover the wick hole and prevent wax leakage before pouring.
After the wick is in place, you can start pouring the wax. Ensure the wax is at the right temperature, usually around 75°C/167°F, depending on the wax type. Pour slowly and gently at an angle to avoid air bubbles, and fill the mould gradually to your desired level. Leave the mould undisturbed in a cool, dry place to allow it to set completely.
With these steps, you should be able to successfully pierce a candle in a PVC mould, creating a beautifully crafted candle with an even burn.
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How to pierce a candle in a silicone mould
To pierce a candle in a silicone mould, you will need a few supplies. These include a silicone mould, a wick, and a wicking needle. You can also use a skewer or a toothpick, but these may not be sharp enough to pierce the mould. Some other supplies you will need are a pot or heat-safe metal measuring cup, and wax (the amount will depend on the size of your mould).
First, you will need to pierce a hole in the centre of the mould. This can be done with a wicking needle, a skewer, or a toothpick. If you are using a pre-made wick, you can thread the wick through the hole in the mould with the needle. You can do this from the outside or inside, whichever you prefer. Make sure that you have enough wick for the candle, plus some extra to wrap around the wick holder. If you are using wick thread, you can skip this step and thread the wick through the hole after pouring the wax.
Next, you will need to pour the wax into the mould. Before doing this, you may want to use a wick sealant or white tac to prevent any wax from seeping out of the hole. You should also ensure that your wick is centred and taut to avoid trapping air. Gently tap the mould on a surface after pouring to release trapped air.
After the wax has cooled and hardened, you can remove the candle from the mould. Slowly stretch out the edges of the mould, pulling it away from the candle. Push the bottom of the mould with your thumbs to help loosen the candle and gently unravel the mould. If you are struggling to remove the candle, put the mould in the freezer for about 45 minutes and try again.
Finally, trim the wick with scissors. Cut the top so that it is about an inch long, and then cut the bottom at the end of the candle. Now your candle is ready to burn!
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Preventing sinkholes in your candle
Candle sinkholes are small pockets of empty space that can form within candle wax when it hardens. They are usually cone-shaped indentations or air pockets that form in the wax, often near the candle wick or at the top surface of a candle. They can affect the candle's aesthetic appeal, burning quality, and overall integrity. Here are some ways to prevent sinkholes in your candles:
Monitor Temperatures
Minimising drastic temperature fluctuations is crucial to preventing sinkholes. The temperature at which the wax is poured is important. If the wax is too hot, it may take longer to solidify, increasing the likelihood of sinkholes. Conversely, wax that is too cool may not flow evenly, leading to gaps and uneven surfaces. The ideal pouring temperature for wax is around 120-135 °F, as cooler wax tends to melt at a more even rate.
Control the Cooling Environment
The cooling environment also plays a significant role in preventing sinkholes. Avoid placing your candles in a refrigerator, setting them outside on a cold day, or using a fan to cool them, as these methods can increase the likelihood of sinkhole formation. Instead, ensure your workspace temperature is around 70 °F, and work in a well-ventilated area without drafts or breezes. Allow your candle jar to reach room temperature naturally before pouring the wax.
Choose the Right Wax and Containers
Different types of wax have varying melting points and shrinkage rates. Harder waxes like pillar and votive waxes are more prone to sinkholes due to their higher melting points. Single-pour container waxes are less likely to develop sinkholes due to their softer nature and lower melting points. When choosing a container, consider its shape and material. Some shapes are less conducive to sinkhole formation.
Use Relief Holes
One effective method to prevent sinkholes is to use relief holes. After the initial pour and cooling, poke small holes around the wick to release any trapped air bubbles and prevent sinkholes from forming.
Adjust for Scented Candles
If you are making scented candles, keep in mind that the addition of fragrance oils can alter the cooling process of the wax. Adjust the pouring temperature and cooling environment accordingly to prevent sinkholes.
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Preventing tunnelling in your candle
Candle tunnelling, or candle tunneling, is a common issue that occurs when a candle isn't burned carefully. It is when a hole forms down the centre of the candle, leaving unused wax at the edges. This happens when only a small portion of the wax surrounding the wick melts while the candle is lit. Candle tunnelling can cause the candle to go out as the wick descends deeper into the surrounding wax, and the flame is unable to get enough oxygen to stay lit.
To prevent tunnelling, it is important to ensure that the entire surface of the candle melts uniformly. Here are some tips to prevent tunnelling in your candle:
- Ensure that your candle wick is the correct size. A candle wick that is too small may not be able to generate enough heat to melt the wax all the way to the edge of the candle. The ideal wick size is usually about 1/4 of an inch.
- Allow your candle to burn for a long period on the first burn. This is to ensure that the entire top layer of wax from edge to edge has liquified before blowing it out. This usually takes at least an hour or two, depending on the size of the candle.
- Use a candle warmer. Candle warmers are electric devices that melt candles without an open flame, producing consistent and uniform heat that melts the wax evenly from the bottom up.
- Try using candles with multiple wicks. Multiple wicks distribute heat more evenly across the surface of the wax, ensuring that the entire surface melts uniformly and reducing the chances of tunnelling.
- Use a candle topper or "illuma-lid". This is a specially designed lid that sits on top of jar candles while they burn, with holes that allow for proper ventilation. Candle toppers help to stabilise and distribute the flame uniformly, preventing the formation of tunnels.
- Poke relief holes as the candle is cooling. Poke several holes around the wick using a chopstick or thermometer probe, then finish the candle with a heat gun or top pour by saving some of the wax and fragrance.
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How to fix holes or bubbles on the surface of your candle
Holes and bubbles on the surface of your candle can be frustrating, but there are a few tricks to fix them. Firstly, it's important to understand why these issues occur. Holes, or sinkholes, are often caused by air bubbles that become trapped beneath the surface as the wax cools and hardens. Bubbles can form when wax is poured at the wrong temperature or too quickly, or if the vessel contains water residue.
To fix holes or bubbles on the surface of your candle, try the following methods:
- Heat the surface of the candle with a heat gun or blow dryer on a low setting. Hold it about 6 to 8 inches away from the candle and move it in a circular motion until the wax melts slightly and fills in the imperfections.
- Poke relief holes around the wick with a chopstick or thermometer probe. Then, gently heat the surface of the wax with a heat gun until it is level again.
- If you notice a sinkhole forming while the candle is cooling, melt some additional wax of the same type and at the same temperature as your initial pour. Once the candle is cool, pour the melted wax into the sinkhole, filling it to the original level.
- To prevent bubbles in the future, ensure your vessel is completely dry before pouring the wax. Stir slowly when mixing the wax or adding fragrance, as too much stirring can produce air bubbles. Tap the jug on your work surface a few times before pouring to help disperse any air bubbles that have formed.
Remember to work with the natural tendency of the wax and maintain a uniform temperature throughout the setting process to avoid further issues.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step in piercing a candle is to prepare the mould by lightly coating the interior surface with a thin layer of oil. This can be done using a spray oil or a soft brush to ensure that the oil is evenly applied.
There are different techniques for piercing a candle mould depending on the type of mould. For PVC moulds, cut the end of the wick at an angle and slide it through the pre-drilled hole. Cover the wick hole with blu-tack to prevent leakage before pouring in the melted wax. For silicone moulds, use a wicking needle to thread the wick through the centre of the mould and secure it with a wick holder.
To avoid issues such as sinkholes and air pockets, heat the glass before pouring in the wax and poke relief holes as the candle cools. Additionally, ensure that the wick is trimmed to 1/4" before burning to avoid soot.











































