Ben Carter
Hatching chicks under a broody hen is a fantastic experience, especially for children. It can be a cheaper and healthier option than using an incubator, and it leaves all the hard work to the chicken. However, it can be tricky to find a broody hen, and the timing may not match up with when you want chicks. If you do manage to find a broody hen, you can candle the eggs between days 7 and 10 to check for fertility and development, and then leave the hen to do the rest.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Pros of hatching eggs under a broody hen | Cheaper than using an incubator, chicks are usually healthier, roosters may be better behaved as adult birds |
| Cons of hatching eggs under a broody hen | Need to wait for a hen to go broody, timing may not match up with when you want chicks |
| How to facilitate hatching | Provide a quiet place to nest, with food and water close by, place fertile eggs under the hen at night |
| How many eggs can a hen cover? | Large breeds like Australorp or Cochin can cover up to a dozen medium-size eggs, bantams can sit on large eggs but can't cover as many, silkies can cover 8-12 eggs, other large breeds can cover 12-15 eggs |
| Candling | Shining a light through an eggshell to check for embryo development, can be done between days 7-10 and again on day 17 at the latest, can help avoid explosions of rotten eggs |
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What You'll Learn
Pros and cons of using a broody hen
Using a broody hen to hatch eggs has its advantages and disadvantages.
Pros
Broody hens can be an advantage as they handle all the hatching details, including humidity, temperature, egg-turning, and raising the chicks. The hen acts as both the incubator and the brooder box, eliminating the need for heat lamps or electricity. The hen also turns the eggs, ensuring equal incubation on each side, and regulates humidity by plucking out her breast feathers to allow skin-to-egg contact. Broody hens can detect non-fertile and non-developing eggs and will remove them from the nest, reducing the need for candling. Additionally, if only one chick hatches, it won't be alone as it would be in an incubator, as the mother hen provides company.
Cons
However, there are also drawbacks to relying solely on broody hens. Timing can be tricky, as you can't force a hen to go broody, and coordinating the arrival of fertile eggs with a broody hen can be challenging. Some hens may not sit for the entire 21 days and could abandon their nest, requiring an incubator as a backup plan. Not all broody hens make good mothers, and some may lose interest in caring for the chicks or, in rare cases, harm them, necessitating a separate brooder box. Chicks hatched under a hen may be less friendly than those raised indoors, as the process requires more hands-off involvement. Additionally, both the eggs and chicks are vulnerable to predators, so the nest's location must be carefully chosen, and the chicks must be moved to a safe enclosure after hatching.
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Selecting the right breed
Large breeds, such as the Australorp or Cochin, can cover up to a dozen medium-sized eggs, but the more eggs they have, the higher the likelihood of breakage. Conversely, Bantams can sit on large eggs but, due to their smaller size, they can't cover as many. Generally, most hens can cover 12-18 eggs of the same size they typically lay. However, the number can vary depending on the size of the hen and the eggs. For instance, a small Silkie may only manage 8-10 large eggs, while a large hen could cover up to 24 bantam eggs.
Some breeds, like the Muscovy duck, can cover almost two dozen eggs. It's worth noting that the number of eggs a hen can cover is not solely dependent on breed but also on the individual bird's size and the egg's dimensions. Therefore, it's advisable to place a reasonable number of eggs under the broody hen initially and observe if she can keep them all covered in the first 12 hours. If she struggles, remove a couple to ensure optimal coverage.
If you're looking for breeds that are less likely to go broody, consider the Ancona, Barnvelder, Campine, Crevecoeur, Hamburg, Lakenvelder, Leghorn, Mincora, Polish, Red Cap, or Sultan. These breeds are not known for their broodiness, and you can focus on egg-laying without worrying about hatching. Light and flighty breeds also tend to avoid broodiness, and if they do exhibit broodiness, they may not make the best mothers.
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Preparing the nest
Firstly, it is important to select the right breed of hen. While any hen can go broody, some breeds are more prone to broodiness than others. Silkies, Silkie-crosses, Orpingtons, Australorps, and Cochins are known for their broody nature and make excellent mothers. Large breeds like Australorps or Cochins can cover up to a dozen medium-size eggs, while Bantams can sit on large eggs but can only cover about half a dozen.
Next, create a comfortable and quiet nesting area for your broody hen. This can be a coop nest box or a broody coop, ensuring it is spacious enough for the number of eggs and has adequate ventilation. Place dummy eggs in the nest box to prevent your hen from accidentally breaking real eggs while settling in. Provide your hen with easy access to food and water, and ensure the nesting area is secure from potential predators.
Once your hen is settled, you can introduce the fertile eggs. It is best to do this at night to avoid rejection. Place the desired number of eggs under the hen, being careful not to overload her. A good rule of thumb is to allow her to take as many as she can comfortably cover. You can collect fertilized eggs from your own hens if you have a rooster or source them from a local farm or online.
Candling is an optional step that involves shining a light through the eggshell to check for embryo development. While some people candle eggs between days 7 and 10 to remove infertile ones, others believe it is unnecessary as a broody hen will instinctively kick out bad eggs. If you choose to candle, day 17 is the latest you should do so, as after day 18, the embryo assumes the hatching position and should no longer be moved.
Finally, be mindful of other hens that may try to lay their eggs in the same nest. Remove any additional eggs to avoid having eggs at different stages of development. Now, all that's left to do is wait patiently for the eggs to hatch, which typically occurs around 21 days later.
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Candling the eggs
Candling is the term used for shining a light through an eggshell to determine whether an embryo is developing or not. The egg candler used in the photo below is a Brinsea Ovascope. It is recommended to candle the eggs sometime between days 7 and 10 and remove any that are clear and not fertile. This can help avoid potential explosions of rotten eggs.
Some people choose not to candle the eggs, as a broody bird will sit on a rock and does not "know" anything. In the wild, a mother duck will also instinctively know to push dead eggs out of the nest. However, some people prefer to candle to avoid any potential disasters.
If you do choose to candle the eggs, it is important to do so before day 18, as after this date, the embryo begins to assume the hatching position and should no longer be moved. If you find an egg outside the nest, it should be candled to assess its viability and the stage of development, and if it is on track, it can be put back under the broody, under a different broody hen, or in an incubator.
Overall, whether or not to candle the eggs under a broody hen is a personal choice. Some people feel more comfortable knowing that they have checked the eggs, while others trust that the hen will take care of any issues without intervention.
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Caring for the hatched chicks
Once the chicks have hatched, the hen will care for them for around 5-8 weeks before returning to the flock. During this time, you can offer the chicks chick crumbles, in addition to giving the hen a daily, age-appropriate ration of feed. It is not uncommon for the hen to offer small grains to the chicks, and some breeders prefer to feed them the same feed, such as a high-protein, unmedicated chick grain mash.
As the chicks grow, you can continue to offer age-appropriate grower crumbles, along with plenty of green feed, probiotics, vitamins, and supplements like seaweed meal. It is recommended to keep the chicks together and separate from adult birds until they are around 16 weeks old.
The maternal instincts of a hen are typically strongest during the spring and summer months, and some breeds are more prone to broodiness than others. Silkies and Silkie-crosses, for instance, are dedicated mothers, but their feathers can sometimes tangle around the chicks, so they are often crossed with other breeds.
While it is fascinating to observe a hen's natural instincts and her interaction with the chicks, it is important to be prepared for the possibility of aggression. If the hen starts to show signs of aggression towards the chicks, it is an indication that she is ready to return to the flock.
Additionally, when it comes to hatching, it is worth noting that larger breeds like the Australorp or Cochin can cover more eggs, but this also increases the likelihood of eggs being broken. On the other hand, Bantams can sit on large eggs but can't cover as many. Therefore, it is crucial to find a balance and ensure that the hen can adequately cover and care for the number of eggs given to her.
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Frequently asked questions
Candling eggs under a broody hen can be a fantastic experience, especially for children. It is cheaper than using an incubator, and chicks that are hatched under a broody hen are usually healthier.
One of the disadvantages of hatching eggs under a broody hen is that you're going to need a broody hen! The timing of that might not match up with when you wanted chicks.
This depends on the breed of the hen. Large breeds, such as the Australorp or Cochin, can cover up to a dozen medium-size eggs; Bantams can sit on large eggs but can’t cover as many, usually not more than half a dozen; and some of the larger duck breeds like the Muscovy can cover almost two dozen eggs.
