Chloe Adams
The history of candle-making is a long and fascinating one, with the simple candle's purpose remaining unchanged since ancient times: to bring light to the darkness. The evolution of candle-making techniques and materials has been influenced by various factors, including cultural practices, religious beliefs, and the availability of resources. But what about the candle makers themselves? What did they wear while crafting these luminous creations? Unfortunately, the specific clothing and attire of candle makers through history is a detail that has often been overlooked or overshadowed by the more prominent aspects of candle-making processes. However, by examining historical contexts, cultural traditions, and practical considerations, we may be able to shed some light on the wardrobe choices of these artisans.
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What You'll Learn
Clothing protection from fats and waxes
Candle making has a long history, dating back to ancient civilizations, when candles were primarily made from tallow and beeswax. In the Middle Ages, candle makers, known as chandlers, crafted candles from kitchen fats, such as tallow, the rendered fat from cows or sheep, or beeswax. The process of candle-making involved dipping wicks into molten fat or wax, shaping the candles by hand, or pouring wax or fat over the wicks.
The unpleasant smell of tallow candles, due to the presence of glycerine, led to the preference for beeswax among those who could afford it. Beeswax candles were more expensive due to the difficulty in obtaining beeswax, and their use was often limited to the wealthy, religious ceremonies, and churches.
With the growth of the whaling industry in the 18th century, spermaceti, derived from sperm whale oil, became widely used. Spermaceti wax offered a brighter, less foul-smelling alternative to tallow, and it was harder, making it more resistant to heat. However, the use of spermaceti still did not resolve the issue of unpleasant odours and the unsavoury nature of candle-making.
To protect their clothing from fats and waxes, chandlers needed to wear aprons, sleeves, and gloves made of durable, wax-resistant materials. Linen and canvas were commonly used fabrics due to their ability to withstand heat and repel wax to some extent. The aprons and sleeves provided a barrier between the molten fats and the chandler's body, while gloves ensured that their hands remained protected and had a good grip on the wicks and moulds. In addition to these protective garments, a hat or head covering was also necessary to shield their hair and head from any splatters or falling debris.
The clothing and protective gear of chandlers were not just functional but also served to identify their trade. The apron, in particular, was often adorned with pockets and loops to hold tools and could be customised with decorative elements reflecting the candle-making craft. These protective garments were essential not only for the chandlers' comfort but also for their safety, as working with hot wax and molten fats posed a risk of burns and stains.
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Linen and cotton wicks
The first candles were created by repeatedly dipping rolled papyrus in tallow or beeswax and were burned in homes, during travel, and in religious ceremonies. In the Middle Ages, beeswax candles were introduced in Europe, providing a cleaner, less foul-smelling burn. However, due to their expense, beeswax candles were primarily used in religious ceremonies and by the upper classes.
Tallow, or animal fat, was a more affordable alternative to beeswax, and tallow candles were widely used for centuries. To make tallow candles, chandlers (candle makers) would craft wicks with thin pieces of cotton or linen, heat the tallow, and then dip the wicks into the molten fat. This "dipping" process was repeated until the candle reached the desired size. Once the candle had hardened, the wick was trimmed, and the candle was ready for use.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the whaling industry brought about another significant change in candle-making. Spermaceti, derived from sperm whales, was used to produce candles that burned longer, brighter, and without the unpleasant odour associated with tallow candles.
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Shop attire
The attire of candle makers, or chandlers, would have been influenced by the nature of their work, which involved handling hot wax, tallow, and other materials. While there is limited information specifically on the clothing they wore, we can make some inferences based on the nature of their trade and the historical context.
In the Middle Ages, candle makers in Europe often travelled from house to house, making candles from kitchen fats. They might have worn clothing that was practical and allowed for ease of movement. This could include a simple tunic or shirt with trousers or skirts, along with an apron or smock to protect their clothing from wax spills. Headwear, such as a cap or a scarf, could also be worn to keep hair away from the face and prevent any accidental contact with hot wax. Leather gloves could be worn to protect the hands from hot wax and to provide a better grip when handling molten materials.
During the 1500s and 1600s, candle makers' guilds existed in the Safavid capital of Isfahan. Candle makers in these guilds might have had more standardised attire, including aprons or smocks with the guild's insignia or colours. They may have also worn hats or head coverings, similar to other tradespeople of the time.
In colonial America, women played a significant role in candle-making innovations. They may have worn dresses with aprons or smocks to protect their clothing. Head coverings, such as scarves or bonnets, were also common during this period and could serve the dual purpose of protecting their hair and providing a measure of safety when working with hot wax.
By the 19th century, with the introduction of large-scale industrial manufacturing techniques, candle makers working in factories might have adopted more standardised uniforms or workwear. This could include sturdy trousers, shirts, aprons, and caps, with some variation depending on the region and the specific work environment.
Overall, the shop attire of candle makers would have been influenced by the practical needs of their trade, the cultural context of their time and region, and the availability of certain types of clothing. While we don't have detailed descriptions of their attire, we can surmise that practicality, comfort, and protection from hot wax were important considerations.
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Guild craft uniforms
Candle-making, or chandlery, became a guild craft in England and France in the 13th century, with a French guild documented as early as 1061. Guilds were also present in the Safavid capital of Isfahan during the 1500s and 1600s. However, candle makers were considered to hold a relatively low social position in Safavid Iran, on par with barbers, bathhouse workers, and bricklayers.
As for the uniforms of these guild craftsmen, there is little to no information on what they wore. However, we can assume that they wore clothing that was practical for their work, which involved melting fats and waxes, dipping wicks, and shaping candles. This may have included aprons to protect their clothing from spills and stains, as well as gloves to protect their hands from hot wax.
In general, guilds and craft organizations often had some form of identifying clothing or insignia to distinguish members. This could be as simple as a badge or emblem worn on their regular clothing, or it could be a more elaborate uniform specific to the guild. Unfortunately, I could not find specific information on the uniforms or attire associated with candle-making guilds.
It is worth noting that the term "chandler" for a candle maker may also have been used for those who oversaw the manufacture of other goods such as sauces, vinegar, soap, and cheese. This broader definition of a chandler may have included individuals who wore more specialized uniforms or attire depending on the specific trade they were involved in.
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Travelling chandlers
In the Middle Ages, chandlers, or candle makers, travelled from house to house, making candles from kitchen fats. They oversaw the manufacture of sauces, vinegar, soap, and cheese, and were also known as "smeremongeres". The trade of chandlers dates back to ancient civilizations when candles were the primary light source for homes, and they played a key role in cultural ceremonies and spiritual worship.
In the 13th century, candle-making became a guild craft in France and England, with a French guild documented as early as 1061. By the 1500s, beeswax candles were appearing as luxury household items among the wealthy, and candle-making became a guild craft in the Safavid capital of Isfahan. However, candle makers had a low social position in Safavid Iran, comparable to barbers and bathhouse workers.
The first candles were created by repeatedly dipping rolled papyrus in tallow or beeswax and were burned in homes, during travel, and in religious ceremonies. Tallow was a cheap and easily available alternative to beeswax, which is why tallow candles were the most widely used type of candle for centuries.
With the growth of the whaling industry in the 18th century, spermaceti, an oil that comes from a cavity in the head of the sperm whale, became a widely used substance for candle-making. Spermaceti wax did not elicit a foul odour when burned and produced a significantly brighter light. It was also harder than tallow or beeswax, so it wouldn't melt or bend in the summer heat.
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