Ben Carter
Candle-making is a science that requires patience and trial and error. One of the most important steps in candle-making is curing, which involves the continual change of wax after its initial cooling. If candles cool too quickly, they can shrink and break away from their holders, resulting in an unattractive rough surface. This often occurs when candles are placed on solid surfaces that draw heat from the bottom, causing the wax to cool unevenly. To prevent this, candles should be placed on a wire cooling rack to promote uniform cooling. Additionally, the curing process can be misleading, as wicks that perform well initially may become too small after the wax hardens further. Therefore, it is important to allow candles to cure for an adequate amount of time before burning to ensure a successful design.
Characteristics and their values for candles that have cooled too quickly:
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Appearance | Unattractive rough surface, bumpy tops, or "cauliflower tops" |
| Internal composition | Contains small air bubbles |
| Fragility | More prone to shrinking and breaking |
| Usability | Difficult to remove from moulds |
| Wick performance | May become too small over time |
| Scent | May not bind properly with the fragrance oil, resulting in an oily surface or liquid separation |
| Safety | May be more flammable due to excess air trapped in the wax |
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What You'll Learn
Imperfections: rough surfaces, bumps, and cracks
Candle-making is a fun activity, but it can be frustrating when imperfections like rough surfaces, bumps, and cracks appear on your creations. These issues are quite common, especially with soy wax, and they are often caused by the wax cooling too quickly. Here are some tips to help you understand and address these imperfections:
Rough Surfaces and Bumps
When your poured candles cool, the wax begins to form solid crystals. Ideally, these crystals are uniform, giving soy wax its characteristic smooth and creamy appearance. However, if the wax cools too quickly or too slowly, or if it contains small air bubbles, the surface of the wax will become rough and bumpy. This phenomenon is known as "frosting" or "polymorphism", and it occurs due to temperature fluctuations during the cooling process.
To prevent and remedy rough surfaces and bumps, consider the following:
- Avoid vigorous or excessive stirring, as it can create air bubbles in the melted wax. Instead, stir gently when adding fragrance to minimise air bubbles.
- After pouring, gently tap the container to help any air bubbles escape to the top.
- Find the perfect pour temperature for your workspace. Adjust the temperature in small increments (+/- 5°) until you achieve more consistent results.
- Elevate your candles while they cool by placing them on a cooling rack or corrugated cardboard. This improves air circulation and promotes more uniform cooling.
- Warm the containers before pouring to reduce the temperature difference between the wax and its surroundings, allowing for more even cooling.
- Save some of your wax to remelt and cover imperfections. You can pour a thin layer (about 3mm or 1/8th of an inch) of melted wax on the top surface to create a smooth finish.
- Use a heat gun or hair dryer on a low setting to melt the surface slightly, filling in small imperfections.
Cracks
Candle cracks are often caused by the same factors that contribute to rough surfaces and bumps: rapid cooling, temperature fluctuations, and air bubbles. Additionally, cracks can form when candles are placed too close together during the cooling process, causing heat to be trapped and resulting in uneven cooling.
To address cracks in your candles:
- Ensure proper spacing between candles during cooling, maintaining a distance of 2 to 3 inches between containers.
- Use a heat gun to remelt the candle surface, helping to smoothen and fill in cracks.
- Save some extra wax during the pouring process to fill in any cracks or holes that may appear.
- Prevent cracks caused by wax pulling away from the sides of the jar by using softer waxes or blending them with harder waxes.
Remember, while imperfections may be aesthetically unappealing, they usually do not affect the performance of your candles. With some experimentation and the right techniques, you can create smoother and more aesthetically pleasing candles.
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Air bubbles
Another way to minimise air bubbles is to ensure that your candle is not cooling too quickly. This can be done by placing the candle on a wire cooling rack, rather than a solid surface, as solid surfaces can draw heat from the bottom of the candle, causing it to cool unevenly and form air bubbles. Elevating the candle during the cooling process will allow for more uniform cooling and reduce the likelihood of imperfections.
Additionally, placing the candle in a water bath can help regulate the cooling temperature and prevent rapid cooling. The water should be maintained at a temperature of no cooler than 15° Celsius (59° Fahrenheit) to avoid cracking the wax.
It is important to note that the curing process, which involves the continual change of wax after initial cooling, can also impact the formation of air bubbles. Vegetable waxes, in particular, tend to harden significantly within the first 14 days after pouring, but changes can continue for weeks to months. Therefore, allowing adequate curing time and maintaining a consistent warm temperature during curing can help prevent rapid cooling and the formation of air bubbles.
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Crystallisation
To prevent crystallisation, it is important to control the cooling process. Avoid placing candles on solid surfaces, as they can draw heat away from the bottom of the candle, causing it to cool too quickly. Instead, use a wire cooling rack to allow greater air circulation and more uniform cooling. Maintaining a consistent warm temperature in the curing room can also help slow down the setting process.
If crystallisation occurs, there are several steps you can take to correct it. You can melt leftover wax and slowly pour it over the top of the candle to fill in any holes and cracks, creating a smooth surface. Alternatively, you can use a heat gun to melt the surface and fill in the imperfections. To prevent air bubbles, stir the wax gently and avoid stirring too vigorously.
Additionally, it is important to consider the cure time for your wax. Burning a candle too soon can yield false results, as the amount of heat required to melt the wax changes over time. Vegetable waxes, for example, continue to harden over their lifetime, with the most significant hardening occurring within the first two weeks. Therefore, it is recommended to test wicks after the initial curing period to ensure optimal performance.
By understanding the crystallisation process and following the proper cooling and curing techniques, you can create candles with a smooth and aesthetically pleasing finish.
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Wick displacement
When candles cool too quickly, it can cause the wax to shrink and break away from the tealight holder, resulting in an unattractive rough surface. This issue is particularly common when working with soy wax. To prevent this, it is recommended to place candles on a wire cooling rack instead of a solid surface. Solid surfaces can draw heat from the bottom of the candle, causing it to cool too quickly and unevenly.
Now, let's focus specifically on wick displacement due to rapid cooling:
The process of re-centring and tightening the wick is a delicate task that requires precision and patience. It is important to ensure that the wick is securely in place before proceeding with the next steps in the candle-making process.
To prevent wick displacement, candle makers should aim for uniform cooling. Elevating candles on a cooling rack and ensuring adequate air circulation underneath can help achieve this. Additionally, maintaining a consistent warm temperature in the curing room can prevent rapid cooling and reduce the likelihood of wick displacement.
By following these steps and allowing for gradual cooling, candle makers can minimise the risk of wick displacement and create a high-quality product.
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Mould release
When candles cool too quickly, they can shrink and break away from the tealight holder, resulting in an unattractive rough surface. This is more common with certain types of wax, such as soy wax. To prevent this issue, it is recommended to place candles on a wire cooling rack instead of a solid surface, as solid surfaces can draw heat away from the bottom of the candle, causing it to cool too quickly.
Additionally, ensuring proper temperature control is crucial. For instance, maintaining a consistent warm temperature in the curing room and preheating glassware can help slow down the setting process. Candle curing itself is a critical component of candle-making, as it involves the continual change of wax after the initial cooling. Harder waxes, such as vegetable waxes, require more thermal energy to melt and may continue to harden over time, affecting the performance of the wick.
To enhance the mould release process, you can utilise a water bath technique. This involves filling a container wider and taller than the candle mould with cool water, ideally at a temperature of 15° Celsius (59° Fahrenheit). After pouring the candle wax, tap the mould to dispel air bubbles, leave it for two minutes, and then insert it into the water bath. Weigh down the mould with a book or a heavy box to keep it steady. Leave the candle in the water bath for about an hour, then remove the weight and take out the mould.
If the candle still doesn't release easily from the mould, you can try refrigerating it. However, be cautious not to leave it in the fridge for too long, as temperatures colder than 15° Celsius can cause the candle to crack.
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Frequently asked questions
If candles cool too quickly, the wax can shrink and break away from the tealight holder, resulting in an unattractive rough surface. This is more common with soy wax.
To prevent candles from cooling too quickly, avoid placing them on a solid surface as this can draw heat from the bottom of the candle. Instead, use a wire cooling rack to allow for more uniform cooling.
The time needed for candles to cool and set varies depending on the type of wax and the size of the mould. As a general rule, leave small moulds for 30 minutes and large moulds for an hour.
