Jessie Taylor
When making candles, a second pour is often required to fill in the sinkhole that forms around the wick in the centre of the candle. This occurs because the wax shrinks slightly as it cools, causing the outer part of the candle to dry first. To remedy this, candle makers save some of the wax from the first pour and, after a few hours, reheat it and pour a thin second layer on top of the cooling candle. The timing of the second pour depends on the candle size, pour temperature, and ambient temperature, but it is generally recommended to wait until the first pour has cooled almost completely.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| When to do a second pour | When the candle has cooled down almost completely to room temperature, but is still warm |
| When the wax has stopped contracting | |
| Before the first pour cools completely, especially if using a wax with pull-away adhesion | |
| After a few hours, when the wax has hardened | |
| After 24 hours, when the wax has solidified | |
| After 1 hour, when the next layer won't melt the margin and muddle the line | |
| How to do a second pour | Heat the leftover wax just enough to melt it |
| Warm the tops of the wax before the second pour | |
| Increase the second pour temperature | |
| Poke relief holes in the candle about the size of a dime near the wick | |
| Place the candle in an insulated cooler or box to slow the cooling process |
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What You'll Learn
Allow the first pour to cool almost completely
Allowing the first pour to cool almost completely is a crucial step in the candle-making process. This step is necessary to prevent the formation of voids or sinkholes in the centre of the candle. By letting the first pour cool, the wax begins to contract and shrink, which is a natural occurrence as the wax cools.
During the cooling process, it is recommended to periodically poke relief holes in the candle, about the size of a dime near the wick. This step is essential in reducing the pressure built up inside the candle due to the contracting wax. If relief holes are not created, there is a high likelihood of a void forming in the middle of the finished candle.
The ideal cooling temperature for the first pour is when the wax has stopped contracting and is almost completely cooled down to room temperature. This usually occurs when the wax is still slightly warm, but not hot. To achieve this temperature, you can allow the candles to cool naturally at room temperature (around 25°C), or you can use a water bath or refrigerator to accelerate the cooling process. However, if you're aiming for a "mottled" effect, it is recommended to let the candles cool slowly without the use of a water bath or refrigerator.
Once the first pour has cooled almost completely, it's time to move on to the second pour. It is important not to wait too long, as you don't want the first pour to cool completely. If you're using a wax with pull-away adhesion, such as NGI CB-Advanced, it is especially important to do the second pour before the first pour cools entirely.
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Poke relief holes in the first pour to reduce pressure
When making candles, it is common to perform a second pour after the first pour has cooled to achieve a smooth finish. However, as the wax from the first pour cools, it contracts and creates pressure inside the candle, leading to a build-up of trapped air. This can result in a void or sinkhole in the middle of the candle, affecting its aesthetic appeal and burning quality.
To prevent this issue, it is essential to poke relief holes in the first pour while it is cooling. These holes should be about the size of a dime and located near the wick. By creating these relief holes, you allow the trapped air to escape, reducing the pressure inside the candle. This step is crucial, especially for larger pillar candles, as it helps prevent sinkholes from forming.
It is important to note that the temperature at which the wax is poured also plays a role in sinkhole formation. Pouring wax that is too hot can cause rapid cooling on the outside while the inside remains liquid, leading to a collapse and the formation of sinkholes. On the other hand, wax that is too cool may not fill the mold completely, leaving gaps. Therefore, maintaining the ideal pouring temperature range of 160°F-180°F is crucial to prevent these issues.
Additionally, some candle makers use a heat gun or hairdryer to gently heat the surface of the candle and fill in any sinkholes that may have formed during the cooling process. However, this method should be approached with caution, as excessive heat can burn fragrance oils and dyes, affecting the candle's scent and appearance.
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Reheat the wax for the second pour
Reheating wax for a second pour is a common practice in candle-making, especially when dealing with issues like tunnelling, sinkholes, or adhesion. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for reheating wax for that second pour:
Ideal Cooling Temperature for the First Pour
It is important to allow the first pour to cool almost completely before proceeding with the second pour. The ideal temperature is when the wax has stopped contracting, which usually occurs when it has cooled down to room temperature (around 25°C). This ensures that the two layers merge smoothly.
Reheating the Wax
When reheating wax for the second pour, it is crucial to use a suitable method to avoid overheating, which can cause issues with fragrance dissipation and even pose a fire hazard. Here are some recommended methods:
- Double Boiler System: Heat the wax in a double boiler to a temperature between 180°F and 185°F. This is a standard method for melting wax and ensures even heating.
- Oven or Toaster Oven: Place the candle in an oven or toaster oven set to a low temperature for a short duration (around ten minutes). This allows a small amount of wax to liquify and fill in any sinkholes or tunnels.
- Heat Gun: Using a heat gun, apply a quick blast of heat to the surface of the first pour before proceeding with the second pour. This technique helps merge the two layers. However, be cautious as excessive heat can affect the candle's appearance and fragrance.
- Hair Dryer: For a gentler heat source, a hairdryer can be used to reheat the wax. It provides enough heat to set the wax without being too intense.
Pouring the Second Layer
When pouring the second layer, it is essential to avoid pouring above the level of the original pour. Doing so can cause the wax to seep into the space between the candle and the mould, making the candle unattractive and challenging to remove from the mould. Always pour the second layer thinly and carefully to achieve the desired results.
Additionally, some candle-makers recommend poking relief holes in the candle during the cooling process of the first pour. These holes, about the size of a dime near the wick, help reduce the pressure built up inside the candle as the wax contracts. This step helps prevent voids or sinkholes in the finished candle.
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Don't let the second pour exceed the height of the first pour
When making candles, it is important to remember that the second pour should not exceed the height of the first pour. This is because, as the wax from the first pour cools, it contracts and shrinks a little, creating a small space between the candle and the mould. If the second pour is higher than the original pour, the wax will seep into this space, resulting in an unattractive finish and making it challenging to remove the candle from the mould.
To avoid this issue, candle makers typically perform a "second pour" by saving some of the wax from the initial pour and reheating it after a few hours. This allows them to create a thin second layer on top of the cooling candle. It is crucial to ensure that there is enough wax left in the boiler for this step.
The timing of the second pour is crucial. It is recommended to wait until the wax from the first pour has stopped contracting, which usually occurs when it has cooled almost completely to room temperature. However, if the candle cools too much, it can be challenging to achieve a seamless merge between the two layers. Some candle makers use a heat gun to briefly heat the surface of the first pour before the second pour, facilitating a better blend of the two layers.
Additionally, it is important to note that the second pour is not a solution for all issues. While it can help create a smooth surface initially, sinkholes and cracks may reappear as the candle burns down. This is especially true for soy candles, which tend to look pitted and funky even with the application of a second pour and a heat gun.
In conclusion, when creating candles with a second pour, it is crucial to ensure that the second pour does not exceed the height of the first pour to avoid seepage and difficulty in removing the candle from the mould. Proper timing and techniques, such as using a heat gun, can help achieve a seamless blend between the two layers. However, it is important to manage expectations, especially with soy candles, as the second pour may only provide a temporary solution to surface imperfections.
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Aim for a smooth finish
If you're aiming for a smooth finish, there are several steps you can take to ensure your candle has a flawless look. Firstly, it's important to save some wax for the second pour. This is because the wax from your first pour will shrink as it cools, leaving a sinkhole around the wick in the centre of your candle. To remedy this, simply reheat the leftover wax in your double boiler and pour a thin second layer on top of your candle as it cools.
You should wait until the first pour has cooled almost completely before adding the second layer. This will usually be when the wax has cooled to room temperature, and stopped shrinking. If you're making container candles in clear glass, it's recommended to do the second pour before the first pour is completely cool. You can also speed up the cooling process by placing the mould in a water bath or refrigerator, but this will create a mottled effect, rather than a smooth finish.
To achieve a smooth look, you can add 1/2 teaspoon of Vybar 260 per pound of melted wax. You may need to adjust this amount to suit your preference. However, be aware that using Vybar increases shrinkage, so you may need to re-pour.
Some candle makers recommend poking relief holes in the candle as it cools to reduce the pressure that builds up inside as the wax contracts. This will help to prevent a void forming in the middle of your candle. However, other candle makers suggest that this step is unnecessary and can be avoided by simply ensuring your second pour is warm enough to melt into the first layer.
Finally, always ensure your moulds are clean before pouring, as this will help you achieve the best results.
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Frequently asked questions
A second pour is necessary to fill in the sinkhole that often forms around the wick in the centre of the candle. This occurs because the wax shrinks as it cools.
You should do the second pour before the first pour cools completely. The layer doesn't need to be totally cured, but it needs to be cool enough that the next layer won't melt it.
You will need to save some wax from the first pour to use for the second pour. Reheat this wax in your double boiler before pouring a very thin second layer on top of the cooling candle.
Do not pour the second layer higher than the original pour, or the wax will seep into the space between the candle and the mould, making the candle unattractive and difficult to remove from the mould.
