Preparing For Hatch Day: Candling Eggs For Success

what to do when eggs ready to hatch candling

Candling is a method used to check if an egg is fertile and developing properly. It involves shining a bright light through the egg to see what's going on inside without cracking it open. The process gets its name from the traditional use of candles, but nowadays, a strong flashlight is typically used. By observing the growth of veins and blood vessels, the movement of the embryo, and the increasing size of the air pocket, you can monitor the development of the chick and identify potential issues. It is recommended to candle eggs around days 7 and 14, and again at day 18 if necessary, to ensure a successful hatch. However, it is important to handle the eggs gently, keep them in the incubator as much as possible, and avoid excessive candling to prevent disrupting the delicate incubation process.

Characteristics Values
Purpose Identify fertile eggs, remove non-viable eggs, identify potential issues and monitor embryo development
Timing During incubation, between days 7-10 to determine if the embryos are growing properly; after 14 days, there may not be much to see other than the increasing air sac size
Equipment Basic flashlight or specialized equipment for candling
Technique Shine a bright light through an egg to see what's going on inside without cracking it open; for dark-shelled eggs, use the brightest light source available
Precautions Do not keep the egg out of the incubator for too long (more than 5-10 minutes); wash hands before and after handling eggs to prevent oil from clogging pores in the shell and restricting oxygen flow to the embryo
Signs of Fertility Dark spot (embryo) with visible red veins; presence of blood vessels indicates a live embryo
Signs of Non-Viability Clear inside with no veins or dark spots; lack of development compared to other eggs; broken or leaking eggs

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Identify fertile eggs

To identify fertile eggs, you can use a process called egg candling. This involves shining a bright light into an egg to see inside it. White and light-coloured shells are the easiest to candle, while darker shells will require a brighter light. You can use a basic flashlight or specialised candling equipment.

If the egg is fertile, you will see a dark spot (the embryo) with spider-like veins around it. If the egg is infertile, it will look clear with no dark spot or blood vessels. After 14 days, it will be harder to see inside the egg, as the chick will be filling up most of the space.

If you are candling eggs after a week of incubation, place the egg in a darkened room with your light source. You should be able to see shadows from inside the egg. Rotate the egg until you get the best view. If you can see blood vessels within the egg, there is a live embryo inside.

It is important to note that candling eggs of different species will have different specifications and incubation times, so be sure to research the requirements for the specific type of egg you are handling.

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Remove non-viable eggs

When eggs are ready to hatch, it is important to identify and remove any non-viable eggs. This process is crucial to ensure the health and safety of the viable embryos and hatchlings and to maximize the chances of a successful hatch. Here are the steps to follow:

Identification: Use a candling technique to identify non-viable eggs. Candling involves shining a bright light through the eggs in a dark room. Fertile eggs will show a network of veins and a visible embryo, while non-viable eggs will appear clear or may show signs of mould or blood rings. It is important to candle the eggs regularly to track their development and identify any issues early on.

Sanitation: Before handling the eggs, ensure your hands are clean and dry to minimize the risk of transferring bacteria or dirt. Wear sterile gloves if possible, especially when dealing with multiple eggs or in a larger operation. Clean and disinfect the candler between eggs to prevent the spread of any potential bacteria or contaminants.

Separation: Once identified, separate the non-viable eggs from the viable ones. Mark the non-viable eggs with a small dot or an 'X' using a non-toxic marker to ensure they are not confused with viable eggs. Place them in a separate incubator or container to avoid any potential impact on the healthy embryos.

Disposal: Dispose of non-viable eggs properly. They can be buried or disposed of in a sealed bag in the trash. Do not crack or open non-viable eggs, as they may contain harmful bacteria or fungi that could be released into the environment. If there are concerns about the cause of non-viability, seek advice from a veterinarian or poultry specialist to ensure the health of the remaining flock.

Record-keeping: Keep accurate records of the candling process, including the number of non-viable eggs, their appearance, and the date of disposal. This information can be valuable for future reference, especially if there are recurring issues with fertility or hatch rates. It also helps identify any patterns or trends that may impact the overall health of the flock.

By following these steps, you can effectively remove non-viable eggs, create a safer environment for the developing embryos, and improve the chances of a successful hatch for the remaining eggs. It is important to remain vigilant and consistent throughout the incubation process to ensure the best possible outcome.

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Monitor embryo development

Monitoring embryo development is an important part of the egg-hatching process. It allows you to identify potential issues and make adjustments to ensure a successful hatch. Here's a detailed guide on how to monitor embryo development:

Day 3:

On the third day, you may start seeing veins developing within the egg. This is one of the earliest signs of a viable embryo. The appearance of veins indicates that the embryo is growing and developing blood vessels.

Day 7:

By day 7, you can perform candling to check for early signs of life. A fertile egg will typically show a small dark spot, which is the embryo, along with red veins branching out and a visible air sac. You may even observe slight movement within the egg.

Day 8:

Around day 8, the embryo develops further, and you might be able to see the chick wiggling and kicking inside its egg. This is an exciting milestone as you witness the embryo's movement and growth.

Day 10:

At the 10-day mark, the embryo continues to grow rapidly. You will observe a strong network of blood vessels spreading throughout the egg. The air cell also becomes more prominent and starts to isolate itself from the other contents of the egg.

Day 14:

By day 14, the embryo is growing steadily. You may be able to observe blood vessels very close to the shell. In some cases, you might even catch a glimpse of the chick's foot or other distinct features.

Day 18:

On day 18, the embryo has developed significantly and is now a chick preparing to hatch. The chick takes up most of the space inside the egg and appears as a dark area. You might see movement as the chick positions itself for hatching.

It's important to note that the above timeline may vary slightly depending on the species of the eggs you are incubating. Chicken eggs typically take around 21 days to hatch, but other species may have different incubation periods. Additionally, dark-shelled eggs can be more challenging to candle, requiring a brighter light source.

Remember to practice good hygiene when handling the eggs, and always return them to the incubator as soon as possible to maintain stable temperature and humidity levels.

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Adjust incubator settings

To successfully hatch eggs in an incubator, you need to properly calibrate the incubator and keep the settings stable throughout the incubation period. The incubator should be set up and running at least 12 hours before placing the eggs inside. This will allow the environment inside the incubator to stabilise and give you time to make any necessary adjustments.

The temperature, humidity, and ventilation levels of the incubator should be adjusted to mimic the conditions and experiences of a brooding hen. The ideal temperature for the incubator depends on the type of incubator. For a forced-air incubator, the temperature should be maintained at 100°F throughout the entire incubation period. Minor fluctuations (less than ½ degree) above or below 100°F are tolerated, but do not let the temperatures vary by more than a total of 1°F. A still-air incubator should be maintained at 102°F to compensate for temperature layering within the incubator.

Humidity should be carefully controlled to prevent unnecessary loss of egg moisture. The ideal humidity level for hatching eggs is still being debated among experts, but many agree that it should not fall below 25% or above 60% between setting and three days prior to hatching. During the last three days (the "lock-down" period), the humidity level should be increased to between 70-80%. You can increase humidity by increasing the surface area of the water reservoir and lowering it by allowing more fresh air intake.

Ventilation should be increased as embryos grow bigger, especially from days 18 to 21.

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Prepare brooding area

To prepare a brooding area for a mother hen and her chicks, you will need to set up a brooding pen. This can be within the coop or a completely separate structure. The pen should be approximately 3 feet by 4 feet in size, providing enough space for a nesting area and allowing the hen to stretch her legs and relieve herself away from her nest.

The nesting box should be comfortable and large enough for the hen to turn around and keep the eggs turned (ideally about 12-14" square), but dark and quiet. It should be placed at ground level so that any new chicks don't fall out. It is not recommended to try and move a broody hen once she has chosen her spot, as this may cause her to stop sitting.

Provide the mother hen with a quiet place to nest, and ensure that food and water are close by. You can give her some ''dummy' eggs or fake eggs to encourage her to stay broody before giving her actual hatching eggs or introducing chicks. A broody hen can accommodate about a dozen eggs that are the same size that she normally lays. All the eggs must fit comfortably beneath the hen. If the eggs are from a different breed or species, she may be able to accommodate up to 10 larger eggs or 18 smaller eggs.

Once the chicks have hatched, remove any shells or unhatched eggs from the nest and replace the bedding with fresh litter, such as chemical-free wood shavings. Keep them contained in a safe space for the first seven days, and then they can start to venture out into predator-safe outdoor spaces.

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Frequently asked questions

Candling is the act of shining a bright light through an egg to see what’s going on inside without cracking it open. The term comes from the traditional practice of using a candle, but today, a strong flashlight works just fine.

If the inside of the egg is clear, it means it is either infertile or the embryo died very early. Remove non-viable eggs from the incubator as they can rot and explode, contaminating the fertile eggs.

If you can see blood vessels within the egg, there is a live embryo inside. Chicken eggs' blood vessels are normally observable within 7 to 10 days of an egg's incubation.

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